Aiguille du Chardonnet

Mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France

Haute-Savoie, France

Parent rangeMont Blanc Massif

The Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France. It lies between the Glacier du Tour [fr] and the Argentière Glacier. The border with Switzerland (elevation: 3,680 m at its nearest point) runs just east of the summit. The East or Forbes Arete provides a popular and classic mountaineering route to the summit.

The summit was first climbed on 20 September 1865, by a party comprising R Fowler, M Balmat and M Ducroz. The first winter ascent was made some time prior to 1914.^[2]

Routes

West Ridge – traditionally regarded as the 'normal' and easiest route on the mountain, it is nowadays most commonly used as a means of descent. On the French adjectival climbing scale, is graded at AD−. First ascent P Thomas, J Imboden and J Lochmatter, 1 August 1879.^[2]
East Ridge (Forbes Arete) – a classic alpine mountaineering route described as "one of the finest expeditions of its class anywhere in the Alps", and is combined with a descent of the west ridge. First ascent by L, H and T Aubert and M Crettez on 30 July 1899. Grade AD.^[2]

There are many other mountaineering routes on the Chardonnet. On the northern side these include the North Buttress (D−); North Couloir (TD−); North West Couloir (TD−). On the south west face, Capucins Buttress Direct offers along and sustained climbing on rock at D+.^[2]

Access

The Aiguille du Chardonnet is most easily reached from the Albert Premier Hut, though the Trient Hut and Saleina Hut also give access.^[2]

References

^ Retrieved from the Swisstopo topographic maps. The key col is the Col du Chardonnet (3,321 m)
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e Griffin, Lindsay (1991). Mont Blanc Massif Volume 2. London: Alpine Club. pp. 226–227. ISBN 0900523581.