| Noshaq | |
|---|---|
| Noshak, Nowshakh | |
 | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,492 m (24,580 ft) Ranked 52nd |
| Prominence | 2,024 m (6,640 ft) |
| Listing | Country high point Ultra |
| Coordinates | 36°25′54″N 71°49′42″E / 36.43167°N 71.82833°E |
| Naming | |
| Native name | نوشاخ (Dari) |
| Geography | |
  Noshaq Location in Afghanistan  Noshaq Location in Pakistan  Noshaq Noshaq (Pakistan) | |
| Countries | Afghanistan and Pakistan |
| Province |
|
| Parent range | Hindu Kush |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 17 August 1960 by Toshiaki Sakai and Goro Iwatsubo (Japan) |
| Easiest route | glacier/snow climb |
Noshaq, also called Noshakh or Nowshakh (Dari: نوشاخ, Nowshākh, lit. 'new horn'), is the second highest peak in the Hindu Kush range after Tirich Mir at 7,492 m (24,580 ft). It lies on the border of Afghanistan and Pakistan. The north and west sides of the mountain are in Afghanistan whereas the south and eastern sides are in Pakistan. Noshaq is Afghanistan's highest mountain and is located in the northeastern corner of the country along the border with Pakistan. It is the westernmost 7,000 m (22,966 ft) peak in the world. The easiest access to Noshaq is from Wakhan region of Afghanistan. In 2019, even amid the risk of Taliban abducting western citizens for ransom and carrying out roadside bombings, Noshaq was in the relatively safe Wakhan corridor. [1]
Climbing history
[edit]Noshaq main was first climbed by a Japanese expedition on 17 August 1960, led by Professor Yajiro Sakato.[2][3] Other members of the expedition were Goro Iwatsubo and Toshiaki Sakai. The climb followed the normal Afghanistan approach, the West ridge from the Qadzi Deh Glacier.
Noshaq East, Noshaq Central and Noshaq West were first climbed in 1963 by Austrians Dr. Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischenger.[4]
The Tiroler Hindukusch-Ski-Expedition of Akademischer Alpenklub Innsbruck (Austria) made the first ski descent from the summit of Noshaq in 1970.[5] The famous meteorologist Karl Gabl was a member of the team.[6]
The first winter ascent was 13 February 1973 by Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada, members of a Polish expedition, via the north face. It was the first winter climb of any 7000 m peak and is the only winter ascent of this mountain.[7]
Between the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979 and the fall of the Taliban in 2001, the mountain was very difficult to access because of political turmoil in the region.[8] In 2011, National Geographic noted that the trail to the summit was again accessible to climbers, with hopes of opening the area up for tourism.[9][10]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Noshaq – Afghanistan Highpoint". Country Highpoints. 2019-08-03. Retrieved 2025-08-24.
- ^ Sakato, Yajiro (1960). "Ascent of Noshaq". Himalayan Journal. 22. Retrieved 2023-09-08.
- ^ Sakato, Yajiro (1961). "Japanese Himalayan Expeditions: ASCENT OF NOSHAQ". American Alpine Journal. 12 (2). American Alpine Club: 275. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Noshaq". American Alpine Journal. 14 (1). American Alpine Club: 234. 1964. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Noshaq Ski Expedition". American Alpine Journal. 17 (2). American Alpine Club: 457. 1971. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ Schwabe, Ulrich (1972). "Noshaq on skis" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Noshaq, First Winter Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 19 (1). American Alpine Club: 217. 1974. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Grant winners summit highest Afghanistan peak". Australian Geographic. 11 August 2011. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Afghanistan's Highest Mountain Reopened to Climbers". National Geographic. 10 August 2011. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
- ^ "Afghan Noshaq expedition". Archived from the original on 2013-06-15. Retrieved 2020-04-21.